Traveling leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller. 

~ Ibn Battuta

Antwerp Is Like a Good Piece
of Chocolate

ANTWERP, BELGIUM - After sometime in the Netherlands during tulip time in the Spring, my friend, Pam, and I decided to take an overnight to Antwerp. We don't tend to do a lot of research before we travel somewhere, just enough to get a place to stay, transportation planned and a general idea of what is there. This time was no different, so we knew we were in for some surprises.

We hopped on a train from Amsterdam heading for the Flemish city of  Antwerp. It was a lovely ride through the countryside and we arrived just before dusk. Exiting the train station we looked around and saw jewelry store after jewelry store lining the street in what appeared to be a bit of a dodgy area. Maybe it was the light of day was dimming or maybe it was really dodgy. I don't know, but we both wondered if this is what the whole city was going to be like.

With map in hand and suitcases in tow, we walked about a mile to our hotel. We settled in and prepared for the next day's adventure.

After a restful night's sleep and a lovely breakfast at the hotel, we exited to the street, walked down the block to the corner, looked at each other with that look. The one that without words says, well, do you know where we are going? And the look back is one of I have no idea.

"Let's go this way," I said, looking down an unknown street.

"OK",  was the reply, accompanied with a shrug and shake of the head, as neither of us had any idea where we were or where we were going.

We walked a few blocks and with a turn to the left, there stood a castle. A castle! Timing wasn't right to be able to go inside. That's the challenge associated with not planning. But we were so thilled with encountering this massive fortification.

Het Steen ('The Stone') is a replica of a castle named Steen is partially built on the River Scheldt. Antwerp was a fortified city in the past, but hardly any of the fortifications remain to this day.

After exploring the outside of the castle, that overlooks the River Scheldt, we turned and were drawn to a pedestrian alley. There was a café with outdoor seating and a tall flat-sided building with wonderful windows that provided a glimpse into life in Antwerp, with lace curtains and flowers accenting the flat brick wall. We stopped for a beer and some fries inside the café and took a moment to appreciate how surprises come when you least expect them.

Feeling as though we were beginning to get a rich taste of the city, we continued through the cobblestoned pedestrian walkways and to our surprise and delight it opened to a large open square filled with people, cafes and incredible architecture. We had happened upon Grote Markt.

Grote Markt (Great Market Square) is located in the heart of the old city of Antwerp was surrounded by 16th century architecture. The Guild houses with step roof facades and adorned with gold statues lined the square. On one side of the square stands the Stadhuis (Town Hall) built in the mid 1500s in Renaissance style and in the center of the square a statue represents the legendary giant slayer, Brabo. The impressive and ornate Gothic Cathedral of the Lady, that has the highest steeple in all of the city, dominates one end of the market square. We had stumbled upon a historic jewel of Antwerp.

 Wagon pulled by horses through the Grote Markt passes
by the statue of Brabo and the giant's hand.

We lingered for some time in a wonderful little café on the square while enjoying coffee served in a traditional way. A horse drawn carriage passed through the square and, as we listened to the clattering of the hooves on the cobblestone, our imaginations were transported back in time.

 A musician plays violin in the doorway of
Cathedral of the Lady on the Grote Markt

We sat in silence and absorbed the history of Grote Markt.  We listened as the sounds from a young man playing the violin, positioned in front of the massive entry doors to the stunning Gothic cathedral, drifted through the air.  Just a few steps away, near church statuary of men at work, sat an artist exhibiting pieces of his art, while passing time with book and waiting for someone to show interest.

We hated to leave the cafe, but Pam was on a mission to buy chocolates to take home and share with her co-workers.

Artist sitting at Cathedral of the Lady on the Grote Markt

Our brief visit to this wonderful, historic city was coming to an end. With several boxes of chocolate in hand, and I mean 'several', we headed back to the hotel to collect our luggage for our walk back to the train station.

In the light of day, the area that appeared dodgy at dusk the day before was alive with activity and the shops  glittered with the offer of diamonds, diamonds and more diamonds. It was Antwerp after all, the world's center for trading, cutting and polishing diamonds. If you hadn't purchased a diamond in the Diamond Quarter, this was one last opportunity before leaving the city by train.

16th-century Guild houses at the Grote Markt. 

It was a very short visit, but as I sat on the train heading back to Amsterdam, I likened our experience to getting a very small taste of the very best Belgium chocolate. The flavor is so rich and the creaminess makes you want more. Although we missed many museums and historical sights, we did get a taste of the city.

This city is a real diamond, filled with many yet to be discovered surprises. I definitely will be back, if not for the many museums and theatres, then definitely for the very fine chocolate!

Location

Population: Approx. 502,473

• Capital of  Antwerp province in Flanders  
• Port town on River Scheldt
• Port of Antwerp is one the biggest in the world
• Diamond capital of the world
  
• City dates back to Middle Ages
• Town hall (Stadhuis) was erected between 1561 and 1565
  in Renassiance style with both Italian and Flemish influences

A few things to see: Steen Castle, Grote Markt, Town Hall, Cathedral of Our Lady, Diamond Square

Traditional Belgium food to try:

• Mosselen-Friet, in Flemish, mussels with fries
• Fries in the traditional paper cone - double fried
• Meatballs in cherry or tomato sauce
• Flemish stew

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