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Blogging.

The Cats of Greece - Zeus, Cats, and a Tale That Didn't End Well

10/6/2018

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By Deb Zulawski
Blogger, artist, photographer, global traveler, and soon-to-be expat currently living in the Pacific Northwest

​It has been a long time since I first learned of Greek mythology in elementary school, opening my mind to ancient beliefs about the origins of the world, the gods, giants, mythical creatures, and the battles for power. All of that in a land boasting the bluest of blue seas dotted by islands with ragged cliffs, on the other side of the globe from where I lived, in a land called Greece.

I dreamed of visiting Greece ever since childhood. I hoped that stepping foot in that land one day would bring those myths to life. Over time, those dreams of exploring a land that were home to mythological gods and giants were pushed to the back burner, in order to explore other places around the globe, such as India, rich in culture, spiritual traditions, exotic foods and aromatic spices. The dense, damp Amazon rain forest filled with peoples untouched and their stories of spirits of the jungle in their land and then the highlands in South America where Machu Pichu, a city of stone sitting atop a mountain jungle and shrouded in clouds, both stole my attention from Greece. The palaces of royalty across Europe holding secrets to the past behind their stone walls and motes, as well as the circles of Stonehenge replete with  mystery that has been solved repeatedly, but not really, instead providing only cues to an ancient civilization all got in my way.  So many mysteries of the world called to me and sidetracked me from visiting Greece and what I imagined that Greek mythology held for me when I would finally arrive.

This year I finally made it to Greece. To Greece!!! Oopa! The land of Zeus, Aphrodite and Adonis, mythical creatures like the Centaurs, stories of the origins of world and of ritual practices of the ancients.  What an amazing country surrounded by the bluest of seas, islands edged with craggy cliffs, rich cultural dance and music, and gastronomical delights. And with all the historic and cultural richness that Greece has to offer I have decided my first blog post about Greece will focus on cats. Yep. You read that right. Cats. Greek cats. Those furry felines with whispy whiskers and flittering tails.

Upon arriving to Greece I noticed cats everywhere we turned. There were solid black cats with golden eyes. Tabby’s posing for tourist photos without a thought or worry, having posed a thousand or more times before. A striped cat with its’ little ones hanging out at a small outdoor café on a side alley in a port town on the island of Syros, hoping for a bit of food to drop, preferably fish or crustacean. One sat on the steps of the church, another on a ledge high above all the hustle and bustle of daily life offering  great viewing advantage, and still another hiding under a dumpster, probably a great place to catch vermin. About half way down the ‘600 steps’ on Santorini Island, from the caldera cliff town of Fira to the dock far below, lay a black cat in the shade of a tree, looking for a few behind the ear scratches or to give a nuzzle or two to tourists climbing or descending the stairs. Almost anywhere shade was cast, offering respite from the heat of the day, you could find a cat.

Cats. Everywhere cats.

I knew there must be a connection between Greece and cats, maybe in their legends or mythology. Were they included in the ancient stories of the land, like Cleopatra in Egypt with her cats or in Roman times where cats were a part of life and art? I started to do a bit of research in order to find the link of cats to Grecian history, expecting to find great stories.

I didn’t find much. Cats were not revered as they were in ancient Egypt and during Roman times. In Egypt when the household cat died, all the people living in the house shaved off their eyebrows and the grieving was only over when their eyebrows grew back. I don’t even know what to say to that. But that was in Egypt, not Greece.

Anyway, in Greece large cats were on occasion included in stone carving reliefs on ancient buildings, but I found little mention of cats, you know, the little ones. I did read that ferrets and weasels, rather than cats, were brought to Greece to manage the rat and mouse population in ancient times. Ultimately, cats were brought to the country and assisted in the vermin control, just because that is what cats do. OK, so not such a great legend or mythical connection, but certainly an important service provided by all the cats on the islands. Cats were brought into the homes and kept as household pets.

Also, as an aside, Aristophanes, an ancient Greek playwright used cats for comic effect and is claimed to have coined the phrase, ‘The cat did it!’ So that is the light side of cats. Here’s the darker side.

Cats were not as revered in Greece as they were in Egypt in the ancient world and this may have been because in Greece, they were connected to the ‘dark side’ due to its mythological connection to the goddess of death, darkness and witches. According to Greek mythology, it is said that Zeus is responsible for that less that desirable connection.  Zeus got, Galanthis, the maid to his mother, Alcmene, pregnant and she ultimately gave birth to Hercules. Well, Zeus’ wife, Hera, was not happy with his antics and tried to kill both Galanthis and Hercules. Unsuccessful in her murder attempt, Hera became enraged and turned Galanthis into a cat and sent her to the underworld to act as priestess to Hecate, the goddess of death and queen of witches.

Putting aside the limited connection to mythology that I hoped for, I found all the furry felines throughout Greece seemed pretty healthy, friendly, with an occasional skittish one, and very willing to accept scratches behind the ear and gratefully accept any delicious morsel dropped ‘accidentally’ to the ground. I really don’t know if they belong to the locals and head home after a day out exploring and offering photo ops to tourists or if they are members of the larger community. It did appear that the locals took care of the cats though. I watched as a nun came out of the Catholic Church in Fira on Santorini to provide a large bowl overflowing with food, with a side of water, for several local cats who seemed to know where the bounty was. They were all hanging around on the cobblestone walkway, lounging on the steps by the gate and still another high above on a ledge purveying the activity below. 

And with that I introduce you to just a few of the multitude of cats that I saw lounging about in the shade and wandering through the cities and towns, ancient ruins, and back alleys of an amazing country and culture filled with great legends and myths ... and well ... an awful lot of cats.
And without further ado, I present you with the cats of Greece...
​one from Turkey, and a couple of dogs
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At Heaven's Gate Cat
​Fira, Santorini, Greece
The Perfectly Perfect Cat
​Fira, Santorini, Greece
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The Acropolis Greeter Cat
Athens, Greece
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Whitewashed Cat
​Mykonos, Greece
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Long Tailed Cat
​Santorini, Greece
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Plaka Door Stopper Cat
​Athens, Greece
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Shadow in My Shadow Cat
Donkey Stairs, Fira, Santorini, Greece
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Standing Sentry Cat
Fira, Santorini, Greece
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Representing Turkey... 
Effesus Cat
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Acropolis Cat
​Anthens, Greece
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I'll Just Nap Here Cat
​Athens, Greece
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Dumpster Cat
​Santorini, Greece
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Lover of the Arts Cat
​Syros, Greece
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Marvin and Matilda On The Plaza Cats
​Syros, Greece
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Tour Guide Cat
​Santorini, Greece
And a couple of dogs in Mykonos, Greece waiting for the humans to come home.
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And last but not least... the PHOTOBOMB CAT of Crete!
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  Captions for the photos? Please share them below in the comment section. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing Reel Wanderer posts and videos.
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What's In A Cemetery?

7/1/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, global traveler, and soon-to-be expat currently living in the Pacific Northwest.

There is something really special about the old cemeteries around the world, be it in Italy, France or Latin America.  Behind tall protective walls, walkways separate the white washed mausoleums, ground level graves, and stone tombs, some cracked and crumbling from time. Some are graced with flowers, some old and faded, others freshly placed. Gravestones that lean from the weight of time have been carved with family names and dates to last into eternity. Broken stones, rusted wrought iron doorways hanging off their hinges sit side by side with the well maintained and freshly groomed. Photos faded from the sun, meant to honor those who have gone before, are now a dim reflection of the past.  Angel statuary is strategically placed to protect those who have gone before. 
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A rusty gate protects the remains within.
Valparaiso, Chile

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BRIGHTON, ENGLAND - HOME TO THE HUNGRY SEAGULL

6/10/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, global traveler and soon-to-be expat, currently living in the Pacific Northwest.
The few days I had spent in London were a wonderful adventure and the Queen + Adam Lambert concert I had traveled to see ended up beyond all my expectations.

In planning this trip I decided that I wanted to venture outside of London and so I planned a trip to Brighton on the English Channel the day after the concert.

A train ride through the countryside from London to Brighton was a lovely way to see small towns outside of the city, as we raced along the rails.


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A HAIRCUT IN LETICIA

5/2/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, global traveler and soon-to-be expat, currently living in the Pacific Northwest.
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Have you ever had your hair cut and in the middle of it screamed, “Nooooooo!!!” and you knew, in that moment, that it was just too late?  Me too.  Mine happened in a small town on the Amazon River, just over the border of Peru, in Colombia.  May I say right now that my spontaneity and impulsiveness can sometimes get me into trouble.  This was one of those times.

Passport Renewal
I was living in Iquitos, Peru, in the heart of the Peruvian Amazon, about 4 hours from the river’s source. I needed to get a new stamp in my passport to be able to stay in Peru for another 6 months and heard that all you needed to do was take a “rapido,” a speed boat, down the river to Leticia, just over the Peruvian border in Colombia, where the countries of Peru, Colombia and Brazil meet. I could have flown to a larger city in Ecuador or Chile, and looking back that probably would have been a better choice, but I decided that a ride on the river would be fun. I bought a ticket and planned to be at the Embarcadero, where the boats, fish and bananas arrived to Iquitos, early the next morning.


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KINDNESS OF STRANGERS IN THE LONDON UNDERGROUND

4/27/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, global traveler and soon to be expat currently living in the Pacific Northwest

LONDON, ENGLAND - Following a three week safari through Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda, I had planned an overnight stay in London to rest and regroup before flying back to Seattle. I arranged for a nice hotel about 15 minutes from the airport by  the Underground, so it would be quick and easy to get to the airport in the morning for my flight back to the states. 

I enjoyed a wonderful relaxing dinner in the hotel restaurant and then returned to my room to settle in for the evening. It was so wonderful to soak in a hot tub and climb into a cushy bed with crisp white linens after being on a hot and dusty safari and riding in an open air truck throughout the Serengeti for weeks.

Climbing under the covers, I set the alarm in time to get up, have a quick cup of coffee and a bit of breakfast, before heading to the airport. I wanted to be well rested and ready for the upcoming long hours of travel before arriving home to Seattle, collecting the dog from the boarder and continuing north by car for another hour. It was going to be a long travel day.

It had been a wonderful trip. Seeing the animals in their natural habit was a lifetime dream and hiking up to the high altitude mountain gorillas in the Virunga mountain jungles of Rwanda was beyond my expectations and more exciting than I could have ever imagined. I was, as I always am after a vacation, exhausted and energized, full of renewed enthusiasm for travel and appreciative for being able to see the world.

The next morning I collected my bags, checked out of the hotel and headed to the underground which wasn’t more than a block away. I could see that it was going to be a beautiful day by the light of the dawn, as the sun rose over the horizon.  I was refreshed.


I had taken the underground to the hotel from the airport, so no problem getting back. The route is simply backwards from where I had come from yesterday. Easy. Or so I thought.

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Antigua's Carpets of Flower

4/13/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, and soon to be expat, currently living in the Pacific Northwest.
ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA - I love the little surprises that come with travel. You know, the kinds where you turn a corner and see a street artist performing, a small neighborhood festival in action, or you walk in to the middle of an angry protest in full swing with police in full riot gear. Yes, that happened in Paris. And then there was the day I came across streets covered in flowers and people in purple robes in the small colonial town in Guatemala. That, without a doubt, is one of my favorite travel surprises.

I was teaching at a private bilingual school just outside of Guatemala City and on the weekends I liked to head over to Antiqua, a charming, little colonial village outside the city.

I had a regular place that I liked to stay at that was dirt cheap. It was very basic, just a single bed and bathroom, but it was secure, and over time I had come to know the owners and they me. A lot of young people would stay there long term when attending the local Spanish language school, so I would often see someone I recognized on return visits.

I stuffed my backpack with a few things that I would need for the weekend and left my apartment for a short walk to catch the chicken bus. 

The bus was filled with locals who had come into the city on business and were headed home to towns and villages on the outskirts of the city.

Large plaid plastic bags and bundles wrapped in plastic or cloth and tied with string where carried on board and shoved wherever one could find space.

The seats were metal and when we would hit rough road there was always a slide and a bump that could leave a good sized bruise on the backside. Passengers held onto poles, the backs of seats and each other as we raced down the road, around curves and out of town.

The chickens that were being transported loudly expressed their displeasure with the driver’s skills, as a young man made his way through the packed aisle, pushing between people and climbing over feet and market bags. Hand reaching out, he called for the fare to be paid. He pushed and shoved until he had reached the back of the bus with all fares in hand. He then turned around, making his way back to the front, as he gave change to passengers who didn’t have the exact fare. I was always amazed not only at his skill of maneuvering the crowded bus, but also how well he remembered who was expecting change and exactly how much.

At each stop, one or two passengers would push through the crowd to get off and a few more would cram on. Think sardines in a can, with a bunch of chickens and plastic bundles, and you have a general idea. Windows were wide open which invited dust from the dry roads to enter. I always enjoyed this ride. Always.
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The Bird Men of Tequila

4/1/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, and soon-to-be expat,
currently living in the Pacific Northwest
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The flute player plays music while the other four men climb to the top of the 30 meter pole and position themselves on a narrow platform.
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After safely positioned, the voladores rotate the platform in order to wrap the rope around the top of the pole, as if a spool.

Watch the voladores in flight.

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Imagine sipping a few tequila shots at the Jose Cuervo Distillery in Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico and then heading out to the square only to look up and see four men flying through the air, circling a tall pole. We weren't sure if we actually seeing what we thought we were seeing or if the tequila we had just tasted was stronger than we thought!
After a moment and getting a handle on reality, we realized that were actually seeing a Mesoamerican ceremony/ritual called Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers) or Palo Volador (Flying Pole). This ceremony is performed to bring an end to the drought and is at least 450 years old. It is thought to have originated in the mountain areas of Veracruz.

Four men climb the 30 meter pole, position themselves on a platform and spin the platform to wrap the rope around the top of the pole. They then tie the end around their waist. Next the flute player climbs to the top and positions himself at the pinnacle. As he plays the flute and dances...yes...dances, the four lean back, with one leg wrapped around the rope and as the rope unwinds the circle as birds on a slow and graceful descent to the ground, representing the regeneration of life. Today's voladores generally circle the pole 13 times each totaling 52 or the number of years on the Aztec calendar.

The men were dressed in red pants with a white shirt with a colorful and heavily embroidered chest cloth. The headpiece is has multicolored ribbons symbolizing the rainbow, flowers representing fertility and mirrors, the sun. The pole is a connection between the sky and the earth...the world tree. 

It was quite a sight to see and I must admit I held my breath a bit as they made their descent. It was quite an amazing sight. It was beautiful, delicate, graceful and dangerous all at the same time. As I watched them circling close to the ground I hoped silently that they hadn't done the distillery tour before the ceremony! It appeared no tequila was involved, as they made it to the ground without a hitch.

Have you ever seen the voladores in flight? What other cultural traditions have you seen as you have traveled?

Please leave your comment below.

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5 CONSIDERATIONS WHEN TAKING THE EXPAT PLUNGE

3/30/2018

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By Deb Zulawski

Blogger, artist, photographer, global traveler, and soon-to-be expat, currently living in the Pacific Northwest.

Are you considering moving outside of the country and becoming an expat after you retire? You may be dreaming of new adventures, the excitement of living in and experiencing a new culture. Or maybe you are looking to find a place where you get more bang for your buck.  Whatever your reason, the world awaits. It is a big world and making the decision as to where to land is difficult at best.  You may decide to move to where every other expat is moving these days – the “latest” location touted by those expat retirement blogs – or you may do a personal search to find the location that works best for you.
In my search for the “right” location I have found a few cities that would offer me much of what I look for. I fell in love with Antigua, Guatemala years and hoped to live there someday. Then there is Cuenca, a beautiful, colonial city high in the Andes of Ecuador, that captured my heart as I wandered through el Centro on my very first visit. They are both viable options, but I am not yet convinced where I will hang my hat and I plan to continue my search…Guatemala, Mexico, Chile, Spain, France, Sicily, Greece, Malaysia, Thailand…the list goes on and on.  So many locations to consider!
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Overlooking Cuenca, Ecuador from the Turi outlook.
If you are thinking about becoming an expat here are five things to consider, besides location, before making your move.

Dig deep and ask the tough questions.
Why are you thinking about doing this? What is important to you? What do you need vs. what do you want?  Can you be happy with only the needs being fulfilled?  Are you willing to accept they way they do things in your new country or will you expect they do it the way to which you are accustomed? Can you live without that red licorice or your favorite barbeque sauce?

Friends and family. How will you keep in touch? Will you be happy not seeing them in person on a weekly or monthly basis? Can you be such a long way from your grandkids?
Is this a forever move or will you only be going for a few years and returning or moving on?
All these questions and more need to honestly answered.  A trip to explore your potential expat city will help to answer some of these questions.  Digging deep and reflecting on your values, adaptability and flexibility will help clarify your reasons, expectations and likelihood of success.

Do your research.
Blogs abound about moving to and living in other countries. The bloggers share their experiences and offer a myriad of suggestions for you to chew on.  Then there are sites like numbeo.com that provide costs and living expense comparisons, a very useful tool in seeing how far your resources will stretch.

Facebook has many groups for expats living in different locations around the world.  It’s a great place to interact with and ask questions of people who have already made their move. You will find those who have adapted well, some who are less than happy for numerous reasons, and still others who after a couple of years are heading back to their home country. These pages generally give a pretty balanced perspective on living in that city or country and honest answers abound to any question you may ask.

Think about visas, residency requirement, and citizenship, if you are interested in going that route. Healthcare. What are the options? Is there a government program with an option to purchase private insurance instead? What will it cost out of pocket and would that be within your budget?  Will you keep supplemental insurance for when you go back home to visit? Or will you just have travel insurance?
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Maggie Mae is coming with me wherever
I end up going. No question about that.

Then there is your best bud. Are you able to bring your beloved pet? What are the requirements to make that happen? Are there vets available and what does their practice look like? What is the culture of pets in the community?

Is the expat community active and welcoming? Start by making some expat contacts and broadening your community to include the locals as well will only enhance your experience.
Make a plan.
A solid plan will take before, during and after the move into consideration. Long before ever packing your bags, make a plan.

How will all the “at home” requirements be handled? Will everything be handled by electronic mail?  Banking, credit cards, taxes, financial planning all need to be considered. How will those be handled? When will you move?  Do you need to sell a home before you leave? Or will you rent it…just in case?  What will your move look like? Will you only take a couple of suitcases and start fresh?  Or will you pack up your entire household and all your belongings and arrange for them to be shipped?  How will you stay in touch with family and friends?  Will emails and Facebook suffice or will you want to have more personal contact through Skype?


There is so much to consider and a written, detailed plan will only make things go so much smoother. The logistics related to the move need to be considered and fully understood. Stress mixed with excitement and anticipation will be high, so having all your ducks in a row before you hop on the plane will be critical to a smooth transition.

Set a few routines.
Set a few routines when you arrive to get you out into the community so you can begin to make connections with expats and locals alike.  

Each morning after breakfast while living in Peru I would enjoy a leisurely cup off coffee in the house courtyard, and mid-morning I would stroll across town to the open air market to get exercise, enjoy the sights and sounds of the city and inevitably I would run into someone I was acquainted with.


While living in Guatemala City I had a routine on the weekends. Having taught school all week, I liked to take the bus to a nearby town, Antiqua, for the day and occasionally overnight on the weekends.  It became a favorite place to go to unwind, and I became familiar with the town and it with me.

If a weekend getaway isn’t an option, consider a Saturday morning walk along the river, ending with coffee and pastry at that quiet little bakery on the other side of town. Or maybe you will join a group with like interests, volunteer to read to children at the local school or help out at an animal shelter.

Setting a few routines at first to get out and about in a normal ‘I live in this town’ kind of way, not ‘I am here as a tourist’ kind of way can normalize your new life. It will provide you opportunity to meet people in those shops, restaurants, schools, clubs and overtime relationships will evolve and friendships will grow.

Create community.
For some this will be easy.  For others who may be a little more introverted or reserved this may feel like a daunting task.

Most cities where expats reside have welcome lunches or gatherings that are held weekly or monthly. Go to the expat hangouts to start the interaction.

Get to know the locals in your neighborhood. Understand that some cultures, though very friendly, may not invite you to their home for a long time. I lived in Peru for two years and I never made it past the parlor in friends homes where guests were welcomed to visit.

Walk softly, observe and learn. Local friendships will evolve naturally over time and more often than not, expats will welcome you with open arms.

Moving to another country can be a real adventure.  Having a well thought out plan and having fully considered your reasons for moving and expectations of the experience can make this new adventure fun and exciting.

What have you done or what are you doing to make your expat move smooth and successful?
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    Author

    Patiently waiting for my time to retire abroad with my little white dog, Maggie Mae, and to live life as a global citizen.
    *fingers tapping*
    *foot tapping*
    Is it time yet?

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